TL;DR Caffeine is a popular ingredient in cosmetic products used to target dark under eye circles. The evidence is sparse but do hint at potential, likely temporary benefits. When looking for a product, you need to consider the active and inactive ingredients, caffeine concentration and some key co-ingredients that could further boost the effects of caffeine. Keep reading for the top 10 best caffeine eye cream recommendations!
What are dark under eye circles?
Let’s talk about something that many of us deal with but might not fully understand: dark under eye circles. You know, those pesky shadows that hang out under our eyes and make us look tired even when we’re not? Well, turns out there’s a fancy term for it: periorbital hyperpigmentation (POH).
So, what exactly is POH? Basically, it’s when the skin around your eyes gets darker than the rest of your face. It’s all because of this stuff called melanin, which gives our skin its color. There’s a whole mix of factors at play, from environmental triggers to good ol’ genetics. So buckle up, and let’s uncover the scoop!
What causes dark under eye circles?
What causes dark under eye circles? Let’s dive into the deets on what’s causing those pesky dark spots on our skin.
- Sun Exposure: Just like with other types of dark spots, too much sun exposure can send our skin’s melanocytes (those little pigment-producing cells) into overdrive, leading to excess melanin production and, yep, you guessed it—dark patches.
- Rubbing and Irritation: While rubbing our eyes or mouths might not be the main culprit, it can definitely irritate and inflame the skin in those areas. Inflammation signals our melanocytes to go into overactive mode, resulting in those pesky brown spots.
- Blood Vessels: Our eye area is jam-packed with tiny blood vessels, and depending on their size and location, they can give our skin a dark, bluish, or purplish tint. This type of pigmentation, known as vascular hyperpigmentation, often goes hand in hand with the melanin-based kind. Things like allergies, illness, or even lack of sleep can make the situation worse by causing swelling around the eyes.
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- Genetics – Genetics play a big role in periorbital hyperpigmentation. Researchers have found that it often runs in the family, with some folks being more affected than others. Stress can also crank up the pigment party, while rest and good health can help lighten things up
So, in a nutshell, POH or dark under eye circles can be caused by a mix of genetics, sun exposure, irritation, and those sneaky blood vessels. Armed with this info, you’re ready to take on those dark spots and keep your skin looking fab!
How do you treat dark under eye circles?
Bad news first: there isn’t much by way of creams and potions that can “cure” or eliminate dark under eye circles. There are, of course interventions involving surgical and non-surgical procedures to consider but that doesn’t fall into the domain of this blog. As always, you should consult your health care provider for more information.
Here’s the good news: there are plenty of options to help spot reduce some of the inflammation and brighten up the eye areas temporarily and if that’s what you’re looking for, read further.
When it comes to topical treatment there are hundreds of options out there! There are many ingredients that claim to target those dark under eye circles. That’s why I’ve dedicated a whole blog to exploring the most promising ones. Today we’re going to focus on caffeine. When it comes to skincare, the science behind caffeine makes it a potential superstar ingredient! It’s packed with powerful antioxidants that shield your skin cells from the sun’s harmful rays and slow down the aging process caused by sun exposure. Plus, caffeine boosts blood flow in your skin, giving you that healthy, radiant glow.
Caffeine has been increasingly popular as a skin care ingredient due to its potential benefits on on skin, including improvement of the skin barrier function (Brandner et al., 2006), prevention of free radical damage (Jagdeo and Brody, 2011), inhibition of lipid peroxidation (Silverberg et al., 2012), and improvement of the microcirculation of blood vessels (Herman and Herman, 2013). All of this translates into claims such as helping reduce the appearance of puffiness and dark circles around the eye area, and improving the appearance of fine lines.
Scientific & clinical evidence for caffeine
There are many published articles about the effects of caffeine. It has been increasingly popular as a skin care ingredient due to its potential benefits on on skin, including improvement of the skin barrier function.
- This small 2006 study from Germany explores how testosterone, a hormone found in males, can negatively affect the skin by reducing hair growth and its ability to repair itself. Caffeine has been found to improve skin barrier function by inhibiting certain enzymes. To test this, researchers conducted a study where caffeine was applied to one forearm of male and female volunteers while a placebo was applied to the other forearm. The results showed that caffeine significantly reduced water loss through the skin in males, suggesting it can improve skin barrier function in men.
- Another group found that antioxidants from green tea and caffeine can help protect skin cells from damage caused by hydrogen peroxide, which generates harmful molecules called free radicals. The researchers tested green tea polyphenols and caffeine on human skin cells in the lab and found that a combination of green tea polyphenols and a small amount of caffeine could effectively reduce the harmful effects of hydrogen peroxide.
- This study explores the effects of caffeine on the skin, particularly around the eyes. As skin ages, it becomes thinner and less elastic, leading to wrinkles and dark circles. Caffeine, when applied topically, can improve blood circulation and reduce the appearance of tiredness around the eyes. The study investigates the effectiveness of eye pads containing caffeine and vitamin K in reducing wrinkles and dark circles. The results show that these pads improve skin hydration, elasticity, and pigmentation, with the most significant changes observed after three weeks of use. Overall, the study concludes that these anti-wrinkle pads are effective and safe for managing under-eye wrinkles and dark circles.
- A small trial was conducted 2015 on 11 women with wrinkles and dark circles. A pad of emu oil base containing 3% caffeine was applied topically once daily for 4 weeks. The women were evaluated for change in elasticity, hydration and pigmentationThe results of this study indicated that caffeine pad significantly improved the skin elasticity, hydration and reduced pigmentation.
- Another study investigated the efficacy of a topical eye cream containing caffeine among other active ingredients in reducing dark circles and puffiness among 40 women. The researchers found that this cream was really good at making the under-eye area look better both in the short term and over time, according to both what people reported and what the researchers could measure. Caffeine in the cream probably helped by reducing the congestion of tiny blood vessels under the skin, which then made the under-eye area look brighter and less puffy, making people happier with how they looked.
Overall, the studies that actually test the effect of caffeine on humans are limited and on the small side and not necessarily representative of the generation population. There’s also a lack of information on how long the effects last, when the product does work. However, some of the results show promising outcomes of caffeine reducing the appearance of puffiness and dark circles around the eye area, rejuvenating the skin and protecting against free radical damage as well as improving the appearance of fine lines.
What should you look for in a product?
When selecting an eye product containing caffeine for maximum effectiveness in reducing dark circles, here are some key factors to consider:
- Concentration of Caffeine: Look for products with a sufficient concentration of caffeine to ensure efficacy. Studies have shown that caffeine concentrations ranging from 1% to 5% can be effective in reducing dark circles and puffiness around the eyes.
- Additional Active Ingredients: Opt for products that combine caffeine with other complementary active ingredients, such as antioxidants (e.g., vitamin C, green tea extract) and peptides, which can enhance the overall efficacy of the product and provide additional benefits such as antioxidant protection and collagen stimulation.
- Formulation and Delivery System: Choose products with advanced delivery systems that optimize the penetration of caffeine into the skin, such as liposomal or nanostructured lipid carriers. These delivery systems can improve the how much caffeine gets absorbed into the skin for maximum effectiveness. They also protect caffeine from degrading too quickly and improve its stability for longer shelf-life. Keywords to look for on the label include: penetration enhancers (e.g. oleic acid, linoleic acid), hyaluronic acid (when combined with caffeine can create a moisture-rich environement that helps promote penetration fo caffeine into the skin), vitamin E (in addition to helping moisturization, it helps protect caffeine from degrading), naoemulsified, nanoparticles, microspheres.
- Fragrance-Free and Non-Irritating: Select products that are fragrance-free and formulated to be gentle and non-irritating, especially for the delicate skin around the eyes. Avoid products containing potential irritants or allergens that may exacerbate undereye issues or cause sensitivity.
- Clinical Evidence and Reviews: Look for products with clinical evidence supporting their efficacy in reducing dark circles and puffiness. Additionally, read reviews from other users to gauge the product’s effectiveness and suitability for your specific concerns and skin type.
- Packaging: Choose products with air-tight, opaque packaging to ensure the stability and potency of the caffeine content. Exposure to air, light, and heat can degrade caffeine and diminish its effectiveness over time.
And the best part? I’ve done all the hard work for you! I scoured the market, evaluated hundreds of eye products containing caffeine and found the top 10 products with the best combination of ingredients and formulations, so all you have to do is add them straight to your cart!
10 Caffeine Eye Creams to Choose From
Methodology
I compiled a large list of eye product with caffeine listed as an active ingredient. From there, I evaluated the factors below. These products were pretty similar in scoring, with slight key differences, which I highlighted below.
- Whether the active and co-active ingredient concentrations were listed
- Number of other active ingredients (e.g., niacinamide, hyaluronic acid) that gives you additional bang for your buck
- Potential for allergenicity based on active and inactive ingredients (where data avaialble)
- Cost
- Additional bonus features (e.g SPF, tinted options, etc.).
Here's the list, happy shopping!
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Innisfree Green Tea Caffeine Bright-Eye Serum
Low allergenicity profile (read: great option for sensitive skin), packed with active ingredients, cooling rollerball applicator
The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5%
Neutrogena Hydro Boost+ Caffeine Eye Gel Cream
Revitalift Derm Intensives 1.5% Hyaluronic Acid + 1% Caffeine Eye Serum
100% Pure Coffee Bean Caffeine Eye Cream
Affordable, chocked full of active co-ingredients (e.g. green tea, rosemary, vitamin E)
Clinique All About Eyes Eye Cream with Vitamin C
Affordable, chocked full of active co-ingredients (e.g. green tea, rosemary, vitamin E)